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The largest tables hold just four people, as some parties of five or six have learned to their regret.

It’s easy to strike up a conversation with somebody, although it won’t necessarily be the somebody you arrived with.Most people with a glancing knowledge of the cuisine have tried an adobo, a garlic-laden stew braised in soy sauce that’s been soured with vinegar.But Bad Saint’s adobo of tender squid is still astonishing, its sauce deepened and darkened by squid ink and given a slow, lingering burn by long peppers.The line that begins forming on 11th Street at least two hours before the doors open at p.m.is by now as much a part of the experience of having dinner at Bad Saint as hanging out in the stadium parking lot is a part of the experience of seeing a Phish concert. They’re the ones who have brought folding chairs, bottles of water, boxes of wine, volumes of Murakami and Ferrante, and bug spray to keep away the mosquitoes who also like dining at Bad Saint.The oxtails and bok choi stewed in peanut sauce with an intense undercurrent of shrimp and anchovies is amazing whether this is your first encounter with kare-kare or your hundredth.

I love bitter melon, but even the skeptics I’d brought with me were won over by Bad Saint’s stir-fry, in which the vegetable’s aggressive tendencies are offset by fermented black beans, softened by eggs and sweetened by a topcoat of fried shallots.

Some of the cooking has a homey simplicity, like the arroz caldo, chicken in a ginger-laced rice porridge that can be cranked up with a dab of red chile paste or left to its own, soothing charms. Cunanan stretches tradition to wrap it around local ingredients.

In the Philippines, laing would be made by stewing dried taro leaves in coconut milk.

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WASHINGTON — I have now spent roughly twice as many hours standing on the sidewalk outside Bad Saint as I have spent inside eating its Filipino food.

Clearly, Bad Saint was built to make the best of its scarce square footage, not to handle the pressure of being one of Washington’s most sought-after restaurants.